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It's real easy to spot IE users because they can't spell worth a damn. Firefox has had a built in spellchecker since 2006.

>>6602
So does all of OS X, and you see plenty of Mac users who can't spell. Without some kind of badass, context-comprehending AI, spellcheck only goes so far (and that's if the user pays attention to its suggestions at all).

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>>6609
>some kind of badass, context-comprehending AI.

>>3807
>But it could be something worse.

In situations like this shit like regular expressions (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regular_expression) are actually useful - with a little dicking around, some mad hax and a text editing program that supports them (Notepad++ and ConteXt for windows do, don't know about Mac, pretty much anything for windows) you can make it select anything that looks like a url (tutorials here: http://www.regular-expressions.info/tutorial.html, takes a while to get to the helpful stuff).

But its really only useful to learn it if you do a /lot/ of this kinda stuff.

recommended is spelled with two m's.
you can delete this post after making the correction.

Pay close attention to the thread dates.
7chan was just restored and most threads were created 3/22 and earlier.




There is no reason to reply to them.

>>9295
Cool story bro.

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before anyone makes 'help me' thread in /halp/ they should download PC wizard so they can properly identify their hardware.

This makes issues like finding drivers/installers for malfunction hardware very simple to solve.

link here:
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/pc-wizard.html
IT IS FREE

Not really sure if this is the correct place, and you can delete it if it's not.
Blackberry's are becoming rather popular devices' and I've started working tech support for them, most of the stuff that we use comes from a public knowledge data base. Below is the link
http://www.blackberry.com/btsc/microsites/microsite.do;jsessionid=5B46689C06CA0BB6C2878529146F9420
The search engine it uses can be a little bit of a pain, but hopefully if you're having an issue this could help.

Are you tired of having shitty USB troubles?
Formatted your drive to fat16 for some reason and can't get it back?
Or just about any of the many mindfuckingly annoying problems that occur with USB drives, partitions, various file systems and the like?
Sounds like you need HP USB disk storage format utility!

But seriously, this (quite small) program far exceeds window's own partition software, can create fat32 volumes of any size and formats your drive properly (ie. wipes the partitions and puts them all together)...
Seriously, if you're screwing around with partitions on removable media I highly recommend it.

http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Hard-Disk-Utils/HP-USB-Disk-Storage-Format-Tool.shtml

>>11668
Fat32? Why? Max file size is 4gb.
http://www.online-tech-tips.com/computer-tips/format-usb-ntfs/

>>11701
It can do NTFS and FAT as well, but windows can do those anyway, but it formats properly (ie. ignores partitions) rather than formatting the partitions, which windows does...

Also FAT32 is widely supported, and you don't really need (at least I don't :/) 4GB files too often...
I wouldn't use it as my main file system, but its fine for a removable drive which is going to be used across different OSes...

you will run into trouble with fat if you do anything with iso files, compressed archives, and movies. ntfs is superior in many ways, except support in other OSs. linux can now read it, though. im assuming osx can too, but i wouldnt know nor care

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>>5595
I think you are being a bitch over nothing. The spelling/grammar is acceptable.

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Hi /halp/

Perhaps you can assist me in this arduous task. I recently came upon a lovely Escort American Tourist Train Luggage that I haggled from an old gypsy with eczema. Sweet deal but no means of getting the darn thing open without the original combination code. Now, I know what you're thinking "the eff does this have to do with technical shit?!" I have nowhere else to turn and thought you can aid me. Pretty please.

Any tips or default number I can use to unlock Pandora's box? I really want to use it when I go to visit my folks. They're going to be totes jelly.

>>12357
If you put pressure on the hinge(pull) and change the number until it clicks the try the next number and when they all click it should open.

Beats me?

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uhh my cheezburger broke!

>>13522
That's what you get for buying a cheezburger instead of a cheeseburger.

I am new to this site and would love to post comments and upload some things I have,but I cant figure out how to do this. When I try I get a cant connect error,or I have to attach a file. Are files required just to comment? HAAAALLP!

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>>16318
Files aren't required to comment, but they are required to start new threads.

Perhaps, when you thought you were replying to a new thread, you were actually trying to create a new thread.

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Apparently WATRemover doesn't work for W7 SP1. How do I activate it? I'm running W7 SPI Home Premium (x64).

>>17306
You use Daz's Loader like everyone else?

>>12357
There are 3 groups of 9 numbers. That means there are only 9^3 or 279 combinations for the lock. Just go from 1,1,1 - 1,1,2 until you get through all the combinations. It's simple.

>>20088
Are you sure it is 1-9 not 0-9? 30 seconds of Googling and I'm pretty sure their more modern luggage locks are 0-9. But I have no idea about vintage stuff.

>>12357
Did you try Google? Turn all dials to 0, find and hold the reset button, (alternatively the lock button if no reset button is found), set the new combination. See if it works. I'm actually curious if that would work. Can't trust anything you read online, after all.

I don't think it's a good idea to ask for /halp/ in the sticky, you should create a new thread for your topic.

Also remember to check the date before posting a reply. For example, if a reply has a stamp of 11/03/02 it means it was made on March 2nd, 2011.

Would /halp/ be the right place to inquire about wiring and such?

>>21001
Yes. Even if it's general house-wiring it's welcome. Long time ago we even had someone asking about what size fuse to put in their plug.

>>21002
I don't know if it's still the case, but back when I was taught electronics they covered house wiring as part of the curriculum. I'm going to guess they don't do it anymore, because everyone younger seems shocked that a geek like me knows house wiring...

>>21006
Well, currently there is predominating this elitist attitude that only so called experts should even know anything at all about it.

It's hardly a rocket science though. The right breaker sizes and types, wire gauges and maximum wire length in given gauge for expected load are all in practice table look-ups, so no need to even know how to multiply.

The problem is, the average handyman does not bother even to find these tables, instead they operate by shoddy rules of thumb (examples in European system) "2,5 mm for 16 A, 1,5 mm for 10A". This is why in so many internet forums people refuse to answer to this sort of "what gauge should I use" type of questions, because the info is out there, if the person does not even know where to find that, it's questionable should they be doing the work all by themselves, even if it's just a garden shed. Though, given they realize to install protective secondary tubing on runs inside wall and use proper junction boxes with proper junctions, in practice their systems won't pose a serious fire or shock hazard, because safety margins in these equipment are relatively large, but certainly there would be many things that would not pass an inspection, just because the amount of dos and donts kind of trivia is surprisingly large and sometimes even arbitrary; "how long is the safety distance from an ungrounded or neutral grounded electrical outlet to a fireplace? Second question: why?"

>>21446
I'd say it's more of an elitist attitude that people feel they're above such petty work. Let the rabble eat cake, and fix your brakes, and replace your power outlets, and change your oil. Otherwise you might be seen as one of "those" people.

>>21466
What do you mean by "those people". On this side of the pond it certainly is not stigmatizing thing to do one's own home restoration, particularly because having people working for oneself for any extended time is super expensive.

Other people's reactions are more like: "oh you did the roof/piping/bathroom water insulation/stove installation yourself, I take you know how to do that correctly?"

About the oil change... At least on my car, the mechanic actually needs to plug in a CAN analyzer and key in some secret code to notify the car that the oils have been changed. Can't even find the code online, because business-fucking-secret.

>>21476
On this side of the pond it certainly is, at least among the kind of people who give a crap. I don't, but assholes are gonna be assholes.

The joy of driving a 20 year old car is none of that fucking shit applies. Though in most states they're not allowed to pull that thanks to regulations.

>>12357
As there seems to only be 3 tumblers to pick from a long and boring option would be to generate all possible combinations then go through one by one other than that sorry.

>>21446
>"how long is the safety distance from an ungrounded or neutral grounded electrical outlet to a fireplace? Second question: why?"

Fun question, and this stems from the fundamental philosophical difference what comes to handling ungrounded and grounded receptables.

Just look NEMA family receptables and plugs and compare them to Schuko falily, see: in NEMA, an ungrounded appliance can be plugged into a grounded receptable, which is what one would expect, but in Schuko it's counterintuitively the opposite: grounded plug fits into ungrounded receptable but the prongs (or the center pin, if you like baguette) prevent inserting ungrounded device into a grounded receptable.

The logic behind this engineering decision goes, I believe so, that ungrounded receptables are to be installed only into dry indoors locations, where the surroundings are not conductive (so called class 0 environment), which means that should the the insulation fail in a metal-bodied appliance, the shock most likely. would not be fatal.

From this follows, when a safety grounded "class 1" device is inserted into an ungrounded receptable, it just becomes equivalent to a class 0, so theoretically the safety should not get reduced by doing so. On the other hand, class 1 is outdoors and generally other conductive environments, where the shock currents would travel more throught the victims body.

(Class 2 equipments are double insulated or made of non-conductive material, hence they have the slim "europlug" that fits into a grounded receptable.)

With this knowledge, we can get back to the fireplace. As it happens to be, fireplaces may have a large, metallic "ember tin" or what ever you call it in in English in front of them, which can be conductive (I think the current code explicitly requires it to be connected to the main grounding bar), so the area 1.8 meters from the tin is considered class 1, ungrounded receptables prohibiten.

That's interesting. In the US there are very few jurisdictions left where ungrounded receptacles will meet fire code, so there are few (if any) new installations, or even upgraded installations, with ungrounded receptacles. Meaning the only ones left are grandfathered in old installations, and even then if any work gets done at the location, sometimes even before it can be transferred to a new owner, the electrical system - everywhere at the location - has to be upgraded to meet current code.

There are some jurisdictions where this isn't the case, but they're generally backwaters where the mantra "job killing regulations" isn't laughed at derisively.

>>21713

Yeah, new ungrounded receptables are prohibiten in most juridications in EU as well, I can't say if in every juridication due the patchworked quilt nature of the union; I don't know what the Poles or the Portugues or the Brits consider code conforming.

Europlug outlets are ungrounded (popular in some places due slimmer form factor), but even then PE must be provided just in case the receptable is later changed to schuko. PE must also be provided for light switches, in case they are metal bodied; the electrical planner can't know what the interior designer wants.

This rule, as it was taught to me concerned about upgrades too. As in, new receptable to two wire circuit.

After all, consider you have some huge jugend apartment in the old city center, the rooms get throughoutly refurbished, so naturally everything from the per-room switchboard onwards will be TN-S, but the risers may remain TN-C, so the ground busbar in the switchboard will be bootlegged. Or, if the riser gets upgraded, of course it must be with discrete PE, but if the switchboard and everything behind it is TN-C, PE will be left unconnected (this is because if some other part at that circuit level gets upgraded, it will have separate neutral and ground).

It can't be that different in the US, the again you still have knob and tube installations... And three phase distributed from discrete dry transformers that are wired into open wye - open delta, sometimes with floating wye. The horrors.

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>>21713

Can you open for me how ungrounded receptables concern the fire code?

After all, the grounding is what is more the fire hazard. When you have two circuits with different grounding potentials, arching may occurs -specially when a lighning strikes nearby. When everything is nice and floating, no such worries. A different story if you use one one of the pic related, they actually allow those in the US...

"Job killing regulations"? I see it so that regulations generally generate jobs, not productive jobs though.

>>21719
Sorry, I tend to use fire code and building code interchangeably. The building & fire code inspector is often the same individual in smaller towns.

Most of our codes aren't geared toward the kind of massive multitenant structures that would actually have a grounding differential if lightning struck nearby, since most have a single ground point for the entire structure.

They allow those adapters in the US but you'll only be able to use them in older structures. In addition the tab at the top gets attached via the screw holding the outlet cover in place, which is screws into the junction box, which is attached to the conduit, which are... grounded.

According to the wingnuts we have over here, regulations don't jobs, ever.

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>>21757
Right, I thought the justification for those thing was the separate ground screw I've also sometimes seen with Nema outlet. See pic.

I don't even know what the local old code used to say about metal junction boxes, or those paper insulated cables with metal shielding. I suppose they had to be connected all the way to the ground bus bar ("PEN-bar"), like would be the case today, but certainly they weren't rated to function as conductor, for similar reason one can't use the electrical installation racks as a ground substitute, even if those too are supposedly required to be connected to the PEN-bar (and you can see the blue tell-tale signs around the joints where this is not the case).

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>>21766
That's a Japanese outlet not a NEMA outlet. They use a separate ground strap.

They look similar except, of course, for the separate ground strap.

However even Japanese outlets are switching to 3 prong NEMA, particularly on higher load devices like air conditioners.

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>>21768
True. I just assumed that the separate ground screw also used to be an American thing.

For a long time ago I read from somewhere that the Japanese also use Nema 14-series of connectors, but make no assumption that the phases are 180°, so they also may be powered from two phases of a three phase transformer.

Also possible to run induction motors like that? I have no mental or mathematical tools to deduce if that would give even power for full revoltion even if one phase is missing. Before I would have said no way, but apparently open wye connection works fine with transformers, so maybe?

For a fact I know that for industrial equipment the Japanese use almost exclusively and axactly 200 Volts in delta. (But they allow grounding resistances that will make ones hair curl (literally).)

>>21769
One thing to remember about when talking about Japan to always remember that they have two different power systems. One side of the country uses 100V per phase and the other uses 110V per phase.

Their electrical code was a complete mess for decades, and for all I know is still a mess. An ex-employer of mine occasionally did contract work for a particular Japanese company, and that work included not only the design and creation of equipment but also physically installing it in a variety of geographically diverse sites in Japan. No sooner did the installers get used to the conventions used at one site than they'd go on to the next and discover the conventions were wildly different. And so it went for each site, continuing on for the decades they had contracts with the company. Nothing like being berated by a xenophobe for not intricately understanding all the variations in their local codes, codes that weren't documented ahead of time because, after all, everyone just knows what the code is so why would anyone need to document it.

I hope it's gotten better from the stories I heard... no junction boxes, no conduit, some locations the wiring used paper insulators and everything was wood framed. Water runs into the wrong spot and poof.

>>21770
>Yay, who doesn't like splices - everyone loves spilices at the middle of nowhere!

But I think you meant the 50/60 Hz frequency divide in Japan; I'm fairly sure they are nominally 100 volts everywhere sans legacy installations.

Have seen plenty of Japanese equipment, as my employer imports them and yes, they hardly use wiregauges other than 1.5 no matter the current. At least as the equipment goes, all stuff engineered to the tightest tolerances possible as voltage goes and so when one capacitor gets dry somewhere or some resistor shifts its value, like you said: poof - whole lot of other stuff fries in cascade.

Like I mentioned, they never specify their stuff for "200-240 V", always need to have a stepdown transformer.

>>21771
>I think you meant the 50/60 Hz frequency divide
I do believe you are correct.

That's what I get for writing before I've had a few cups of coffee.

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>>22466
Трахни свои янки синие джинсы.

>>22470
Right back atcha bro

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Following up from the electrical things, as I was saved by the mandatory per-building grounding electrode, good protective bonding and the sensible regulations all the way from the 60s requireing 3-wire system in kitchens and other potentially wet spaces.

Crambled in the dark to metal oven hood to get some light last night, and as I turned the knob, I felt the worst jolt in my life, a large spark dropped on the oven and the kitchen went dark again.

The thing is, we started to require RCD's at all as late as late 90s I think. So this apt too only had a trusty old ceramic D-fusible, which I blew several of. The old electrician's adage is: they are designed to only protect the building, not the people.

For whatever reason, even today the local electrical code has a special exception allowing just breakers / fusibles and no RCD's for refrigerators and freezers. It's a vestige from a much longer list of appliances, that much I know - washers for example used to be counterintuitively exempt for a long time, because many models at the time had so strong leakage currents, a norman 30 mA RCD would have false tripped in every cycle.

As those were good old times when we didn't put RCD's on washing machines, instead we put this little stricker saying "do not touch the appliance while wet" (girls attention!).

Sometimes another sticker would say: "warning, outlets in separate phases - 400 V !". This, because good old timely power hungry washer and it's pal dryer running together would trip a typical 16 A fast breaker, so instead of bringing 3x 4 mm² (20 A, which is rare) or 3x 6, (25 A), one would just bring a more common 4x 1.5 (2x 10 A) or 4x 2.5 (2x 16 A) to be safe, and use shared neutral on the cable leading into the washroom. Single pole breakers allowed, as no appliance is connected to both circuits.

Well that was a mouthful...

But may I ask, what is the effect behind that in the old timely ceramic fuse installations specially, when a single fuse blows, it may also blow several completely unrelated fuses in circuits parallel to it. (I'm not meaning a cascading failure; the D-system prevents those well.)

>>22495
Its probably something to do with a surge in current caused by the load of the blown fuse circuit being removed, raising the amperage available to the remaining circuits, which may then draw more than their previous amount depending on the devices in use. Incandescents shine brighter because they draw more current and pop pop pop.

Not sure if that's whats at work but it makes sense if you have a house full of old electrical devices.